Milky sail drive oil is bad. If it's not clear, then there's water in it. Gerty's looks like the overpriced coconut water that sits next to the sports drinks in the health food aisle. You know, the blue bottle that…

Morocco to Canaries Passage Day 3 15:22 POS 32 33.30 N 9 55.46 W, TWS 10.4, SOG 5.0, AWA 178 The best wind-dance song on The Beatles Blue album is Hey Jude. The last 4 minutes or so have repeating…

Some days are good. It's crisp and sunny outside, and I'm feeling smug because I know how to say whip cream in four languages. The obvious, whip cream, plus chantilly, panna, and nata.  Some days are shitty, like the one…

Leaving Formentera this morning in the dark, against a lee shore, in twenty knots, was our best situation in days. All we had to do was dodge the lightning bolts. At least we could squeeze in five hours of sleep…

A guacamole stain on my dress is distracting me from the view out the plane window.  Part of me doesn’t want to wash it off.  We were having a picnic with Zachary and his friends in Central Park just yesterday. …

Two of the three officials that boarded Gerty when we arrived in Monastir, Tunisia had ink on the tip of their index finger.  We knew that their new controversial constitution was at stake on the day we arrived. “Did you…

Being in Malta for the second time in less than six months, we considered it a pit stop on the way from Greece to Tunisia.  A place to do chores, if you will.  We purchased the bottom paint Gerty would…

First Night Watch, N36 8.5’ E21 21.0’ Soundtrack: Big Bad Voo Doo Daddy I figured out how to sit at the nav station without the risk of tumbling past the companionway and into the bathroom.  I press my back into…

Tonight it rained.  Water dropped from the sky in droplets of varying size and frequency for fifteen minutes.  The bed, the table, the settee, and the floor got wet because we forgot to close the hatches.  Why?  Because we forgot…

Two years to the day, we were not where we are now.  We’re strategically anchored amongst three little islands at the end of a long straight where the wind is known to funnel from the north.  We’re here with our…

There is no doubt that an isolated anchorage has its merits, but there is also something special about the sleeping crowd of sailboats in Paros this morning.  A Meltemi is forecast for tomorrow and they’ve come to find the calm…

There’s a place for sailors where the wind blows from the North; for hikers where flower lined trails touch the Aegean Sea; and for mere mortals where the food is fit for gods.  It’s The Cyclades of Greece.  Thus far,…