Visitors, Visitors, and More Visitors

What a view! A bottle of 3M marine wax sits on the table in the foreground while a blue quick-dry towel, wet suit, and mesh vinyl backing to the nav station desk chair hang on the port side lifeline. A 12-meter kite dries atop the trampolines forward of the mast, and the dinghy bobs off the starboard swim platform. This scene is set against a backdrop of turquoise water and baby blue sky. Only the sound of the hookah interrupts the rhythm of the wind and the water, and I don’t mind the noise because it’s feeding air into Michael’s lungs below as he scrapes Gerty’s hulls clean.

Did I write hulls? I sure did because Gerty is now a 2011 Outremer 49. Zachary, her first guest, has already joined us for her maiden voyage, and we are settling into our next adventure.

However, we can only officially begin after reflecting on our momentous time in Antigua. 

If a home is where friends and family are, then Antigua is ours. 

It all started with Iain and Jaqueline (SV Fatjax) when we bumped into them on our first night on dry land after our Atlantic crossing. We last shared a hug in the Azores. So time-erasing embraces were given all around.

Then Joe, Nigel, Brian, and Helen (SV Wychcraft and SV Helacious) showed up and we knew the fun wouldn’t stop for months!

What we didn’t realize was that Elaine would be so salty. At seventy-nine years young, she hopped into our dinghy, Lovebug, at Wilkies Fisherman’s dock, renamed Nonsuch Bay, Nonsense Bay, and sailed with us into the open ocean without hesitation.

She was, in a word, inspiring, and we took full advantage of her enthusiasm by going to the races—the Caribbean 600, to be specific.

Rob and Kathryn also came to sail. New owners of a gorgeous Hinckley 1966 Pilot 35, they had a mission—to discover what life on the water is all about.

We left it up to Nigel, our resident sea shanty expert, to ensure the learning was harmonious (or at least explosively funny when we all joined in for the chorus!)

Doug and Lori arrived in style by kayak. I’ve never seen two people paddle so in sync! Then Lori showed off her mended achilles by yes-ing every hike Michael suggested. So it’s good that Doug supplied the Nutella to help revive us from exhaustion.

Ta-da! Todd, Liz, Emer, Talia, Kayla, and Grandma Polly dropped in, and things got silly. It’s possible we made a scene in Freeman’s Bay by having six people jump off Gerty’s bow ten times in a row to get that perfect picture—I can’t be sure.

No matter because no one noticed when Graham (SV Reel Riddim) jumped in the water to save me and Grandma Polly from her body-swallowing life vest.

Octogenarian #3 on Gerty arrived when he was still in his seventies. So you can imagine the festivities that took place. Let’s just say the Rum in the Ruins tour should probably be renamed, Ruined by the Rum, and the gigantic brownie sundae birthday cake was spot on, according to my Dad and Janet. Everything, and I mean everything, down to the sunsets and rainbows, seemed to be celebrating with us that week.

When the Hutchinsons came, it’s quite possible we forgot to tell them that Joe and Nigel would take us cliff hiking in the dark after a night of drinks and steel drums. But they made the trek in stride and lived to tell about it. So it’s all good.

Finally, the one we’d been waiting for arrived—Zachary! (I can write that because I know you all understand and won’t be insulted). Coming from the high-stress world of medical school in New York, he relaxed and smiled in the sun. What could be better than seeing that?

Sharing him with friends, that’s what. Lesley and Rich brought the matza, and voila! It was a Passover seder, complete with all the blessings. How apropos because, after all, Antigua has been filled with them from the start.

Antigua’s Blessings

• Maxwell. Honest Maxwell keeps Nelson’s Dockyard and the surrounding grounds clean and tidy. He also found my credit card and made sure it made its way back to me. Thank you, Maxwell!
• Joyce. Nothing slips by no-nonsense Joyce. For example, when I’m in her store, if I pick a tomato that’s not quite right, she tells me to put it back and choose a better one. Thank you, Joyce!
• Elizabeth & Diane. These ladies use the timeline early, never late for their laundry operation. And, oh boy, did we keep them busy when we switched boats! Thank you, Elizabeth and Diane.
• Moody & Jamal (+1 268 779 5488 WhatsApp). These reliable men made all of our rides more fun! Thank you Moody and Jamal.
• Jonella and Alexa. This mother-daughter duo did nothing in particular but be lovely. They’re sugar syrup sweet. Thank you for being you.
• Jovielle. She loved to tell us, “You’ll have to wait.” For what? Freshly baked chocolate croissants at La Brassiere French Bakery. Needless to say, we didn’t mind! Bonus—Jovielle is happy to discuss her hair at length. So fun!
• Elsa and Cheralynn. Always busy during morning shifts at Covent Garden, these ladies chat while they work, making everyone’s day a little brighter.
• Officer Blair. Efficient and helpful, Officer Blair makes checking in and out of Antigua a pleasure.
• And I don’t know what we would do without these off the beaten path favorites. 
  • Tropical Time Out Ice Cream Parlor and Deli. Order the large chicken wings plate, and save room for soursop ice cream
  • Sweet T’s. Burgers (veggie), ice-cream, and karaoke. YUM!

Last remarks

Presenting the Antigua Sailor Superlative Awards:

• Papa John—The Saltiest Sailor Award (I’ve got a hunch)
• Grandma E—The Tallest Rainbow Award
• Kathryn Slokum—The Post Hike Vanilla Ice Cream Taste Test Award
• Rob Goodwin—Longest Uninterrupted Helming Award
• Lori Greene—The Bounce Back Snorkeler Award
• Doug Greene—The How Do You Always Know What We Need Award 
• Kayla Hammer—The Secret Cozy Cliffside Chat Award 
• Talia Hammer—The Sundress Chocolate Award
• Emerson Hammer—The Kiteboarder of the Century Award
• Todd Hammer—The Tortilla Chip King Award
• Liz Hammer—The Bumpy Road Slayer Award 
• Grandma Polly—The Best Sailor Disguised as a Coffee Drinking Grandma Award. 
• Papa Mark—The Guy Who Can Pull Off A Panama Hat Award. 
• Janet—The Whipped Cream Queen Award (Great idea!) 
• Lesley Hutchinson—The Snap Happy Snorkeling Photographer Award 
• Rich Hutchinson—The Two Times a Guest – Whale Whisperer Award
• Zachary—The You Make the Sunshine Award
• Michael—The O Captain! My Captain! Our Trip is Far From Done Award