Ships Log: June 21, 2024, 08:14 Ua Pou to Raroia. TWS 15.5, AWS 10.5, TWA 147D, AWA 103D, SOG 9.5. S 13.09D, W 141.56D If we hadn't gone swimming in the waterfall-fed swimming hole at the end of the 11.4…

Stunning. That’s how Michael saw Nuku Hiva when we arrived. Spired mountains rise from the Pacific Ocean, lush with vegetation until they descend rock-faced into the crashing waves. I get how he might see stunning. I saw an island on…

The answer to your question is yes. There is water as far as the eye can see in every direction. The ocean is humbling and beautiful beyond words. Sometimes, we hear the mermaids singing, the stars are outrageous, and the…

Day: 14, Time: 23:32, 501 nm to destination Nuku Hiva TWS 19, AWS 11, COG 256D, SOG 9.4kt, Position S 7D 53 W 131D 46 It is a moonless night. I sit at the helm station, staring into a void…

Too anxious and tearful to look into the camera lens for our pre-departure photo, I suggested Michael and I look at each other; his face was what I needed to feel ready. At 11:30, we departed Isabela, Galapagos, 0° 58S…

Tonight, the ocean is the most peaceful place on earth, and I am alone but not lonely. Michael has gone to sleep, and the moon is not yet awake, so it’s just me and the stars. We’re en route to…

The Panama Canal Transit in two paragraphs Sailboats like Gerty begin the Panama Canal transit behind a ship. The forward view is completely obstructed. So at first, mariners tend to look behind at the closing iron doors and watch the…

Some boatyards are better than others for living aboard. Our experience in Spain was better than Tunisia's, and our Panama situation has been the most comfortable so far. It’s like this: Gerty is hauled out of the water to repair…

Since we were in The Gambia, I have not needed to whittle my thoughts down to mere chapters. Moments in time are all I can share with you because, in Guna Yala, there is too much wonderful to put into…

When the sun sets, if we're not in a harbor, we're on a mission to get to one. Although the open ocean brings a blue world steeped in natural beauty, it's also wearing. On day four, we ache. Gravity feels…

Earlier today, an egg escaped from its plastic nest, jumped out of the refrigerator, and landed on the port hull step. It cracked, and its innards oozed into the crevices of the emergency hatch below. It was a classic boat-passage…

The Bahamas to Puerto Rico Ships log: January 28, 2024, 01:22 N 23° 35.60' W  75° 30.65' TWS 9.9 TWD 188 AWS 8.5 SOG 8.2 It’s sunny, we’re flying over smooth seas, and the captain is happy. It’s hard to…