Rainy days are rare here. Hence, they are special. They are a time for walks between the raindrops on the motus, escaping the chill of a dinghy ride by jumping into the warm water, and snuggling up to write about…

In New York, the 7:30 a.m. rush hour looked like this:  Try hard to remember where I parked my car and hope there isn’t a ticket on the window Get in and toggle the dashboard buttons to National Public Radio…

The thing about sailing is that to get from one place to another, we must sail. Come with me and let 10 knots of wind on the beam blow through your hair. See the sun perched in the middle of…

Michael had been quiet since we returned from visiting John and Elaine in Maryland. I grew accustomed to listening to the water lap because he barely spoke for days. John died on a Thursday at 1:00 am, but it was…

Moorea was the place I had most looked forward to visiting when we were dreaming about French Polynesia, and it did not disappoint. Considering I could barely walk when we arrived, there’s no denying it’s allure. Michael hiked to his…

Yesterday, we silently slipped off the edge of a Polynesian boat into the open ocean. The color of the water defined blue, and the depth seemed immeasurable. There! Our guide jousted the sea with his finger but did not speak…

You know you’ve been hanging out in some incredible places if Tahiti is considered a pit stop. Heading west from Panama, Papeete is the first sizeable city sailors reach. So it’s hailed more for its goods and services than its…

It’s been twenty days since we sailed in the open ocean, and a maramu has been blowing for the last nine. So I was jittery this morning going through the south pass in big waves, but now it’s smooth sailing. …

By all modern measures, the Tuomotus archipelago is the most relaxing place in the world. There are very few restaurants, stores, houses, or people, and many of the atolls we've visited have none of these things at all. There is…

Ships Log: June 21, 2024, 08:14 Ua Pou to Raroia. TWS 15.5, AWS 10.5, TWA 147D, AWA 103D, SOG 9.5. S 13.09D, W 141.56D If we hadn't gone swimming in the waterfall-fed swimming hole at the end of the 11.4…