Chapter 4: Day and Night The air is still. I hear water lapping against the hull, roosters crowing, dogs barking, and a flag flapping gently in the breeze. In the distance, Polynesian music drifts through the air—a ukulele twangs, falls…

Au revoir, Gambier! If it weren’t for the rainbow shooting out my toe, I would feel glum watching your islands fade into the distance. Instead, I’m taking my best memories with me and looking toward a colorful future with no…

Ships log - January 08, 2025 - : Jill’s watch. S 20°04.1 W138°25.1, Spinnaker and Main with preventer on. TWS 10.7 AWS 6.6 SOG 6.7 AWA -97° TWA 142° Mast angle -30.5° Leaving a place, any place, where there’s a…

Ships log 01-07-2025 08:00. We went through the Hao pass at 06:30 with 2 knots of incoming current against us and 9 knots of wind on the starboard stern quarter. Thirty minutes past slack, the water was turbulent with no…

If life were like an ultra-absorbant boat towel, then it’s safe to say Zachary, Michael, and I just spent ten days ringing out every last drop of water. Zachary arrived, Fantasy Island-style, in a small plane. The scent of frangipani…

Rainy days are rare here. Hence, they are special. They are a time for walks between the raindrops on the motus, escaping the chill of a dinghy ride by jumping into the warm water, and snuggling up to write about…

In New York, the 7:30 a.m. rush hour looked like this:  Try hard to remember where I parked my car and hope there isn’t a ticket on the window Get in and toggle the dashboard buttons to National Public Radio…

The thing about sailing is that to get from one place to another, we must sail. Come with me and let 10 knots of wind on the beam blow through your hair. See the sun perched in the middle of…

Michael had been quiet since we returned from visiting John and Elaine in Maryland. I grew accustomed to listening to the water lap because he barely spoke for days. John died on a Thursday at 1:00 am, but it was…

Moorea was the place I had most looked forward to visiting when we were dreaming about French Polynesia, and it did not disappoint. Considering I could barely walk when we arrived, there’s no denying it’s allure. Michael hiked to his…