Too anxious and tearful to look into the camera lens for our pre-departure photo, I suggested Michael and I look at each other; his face was what I needed to feel ready. At 11:30, we departed Isabela, Galapagos, 0° 58S…

Tonight, the ocean is the most peaceful place on earth, and I am alone but not lonely. Michael has gone to sleep, and the moon is not yet awake, so it’s just me and the stars. We’re en route to…